Need help: how to soldering capacitor

[thanh.tạ]

Hi everyone.
I have a USB drive: WD15NMVW-11EDZS3
Hard drive problems when booting.
It emits noise and then stops spinning.
I was looking for a donor, specifically: 771961-001 rev B -> 771959-000 rev A
Make a swap rom, HDD not working, check PCB and look like that:

How to fix it?
Thank for reading.

 

[Jared]

Maybe my eyes just aren't very good but I'm having a hard time seeing what you're referring to. Are you saying there's a blown capacitor at location C19? Why not just try a different PCB and program the ROM to it this time instead of physically transferring it?

 

[Jared]

Oh! I see it, the capacitor is blown off and sitting to top left of where it should be. You can probably just re-heat and reattach it. Or just re-solder it with an iron.

 

[thanh.tạ]

I tried but it seems pretty hard to solder it.
Maybe because of my lack of skills and experience in this

 

[LarrySabo]

Use some flux (Kingbo works great!) when you solder. Looks like you did a good job on the ROM. What kind of noise did it make? Perhaps all it had was stiction. If it was a clicking noise, it was probably bad heads/media. Why start with a PCB swap?

 

[Jared]

Yeah, flux is important. I find that by wetting the contacts of the part you're removing it'll heat up faster than the surrounding components and be less likely to blow off other components.

That and keeping your airflow speed low.

 

[thanh.tạ]

Use some flux (Kingbo works great!) when you solder. Looks like you did a good job on the ROM. What kind of noise did it make? Perhaps all it had was stiction. If it was a clicking noise, it was probably bad heads/media. Why start with a PCB swap?

Thank you for your suggestions.
I have not used flux yet. I will try it tomorrow.
As for the hard drive, I do not know how to use the PC3000 to test the WD USB 3.0 drive.
So, I switched it to sata pcb so I can check the head.
I bought a lot of old hard drives and errors to test but not really successful.
Thank you for your interest.

Yeah, flux is important. I find that by wetting the contacts of the part you're removing it'll heat up faster than the surrounding components and be less likely to blow off other components.

That and keeping your airflow speed low.

More experience for me.
Thank you.

 

[Jared]

If you have PC-3000 it's possible to put the PCB into boot ROM code mode and just digitally read/write the ROM in most cases. That way you never have to solder on your donor boards and can use them over and over again.

 

[thanh.tạ]

I tried booting the rom mode but the terminal does not work.
I will try again tonight. Thank you.

 

[jol]

there are 2 types of PCBs (USB) in WD
for 1 type you use the Samsung adapter
for the other type you use Toshiba adapter (upside down)

the easiest way to determine what adapter to use
use a multimeter
check for continuity E2 and E7 (RX/TX)

the most important thing is the timing provided power